Aubergine caviar, post-Soviet kebab kiosks: what Ukraine’s food culture taught me 30 years ago – The Guardian

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1. The author reflects on their year spent in the former Soviet Union, studying Russian and enjoying Ukrainian food and drink.
2. They recall the importance of food and drink choices among their friends, such as borscht vs. shchi and horilka vs. vodka.
3. The author reminisces on the optimism and cultural experiences of that time, contrasting it with the current conflict and devastation in Ukraine.

In this news article, the author reflects on their experience of living in the former Soviet Union thirty years ago. They spent time in St. Petersburg and Ukraine, studying Russian but interacting mostly with Ukrainian friends. At that time, the former USSR was transitioning to calling itself the Commonwealth of Independent States. While Ukraine had been independent for three years, national identity was not openly discussed except when it came to food and drink.

The author highlights the importance placed on food preferences among their friends, whether it was choosing borscht over shchi or horilka over vodka. However, the memories that stand out the most for the author are of a lazy hot summer in the south of Ukraine, where they learned their way around a kitchen and enjoyed the diverse cuisine of Odesa.

The author then transitions to discussing the current situation in Ukraine, particularly in Odesa and Kryvyi Rih, which are now on the front line of conflict. The constant aerial bombardment has made it difficult to remember these places as they once were. The author reflects on the romanticized view of these cities in terms of culture, romance, and hedonism after Ukraine’s independence in 1991. At that time, despite economic hardships and long queues for goods, there was a sense of optimism and unity among the different parts of the former Soviet Union.

The author recalls the fascination locals had with foreign foods during their time in Russia. The prominence of Western food brands and the author’s experience of being asked about the taste of familiar products like Bounty and Snickers highlights the disparity between imported treats and their affordability for the average person.

Overall, the author’s personal account serves as a reflection on the changes Ukraine has undergone since their time there. It emphasizes the impact of conflicts and how they reshape people’s lives and perceptions of a place. Additionally, it draws attention to the loss of innocence and the fading of memories as circumstances and conflicts change the fabric of a region.


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